A weekend on the south Kerry coast can absolutely be planned around the food. Here is the loose route we would suggest for two days, starting from the Derrynane on a Friday afternoon.
Friday — slowly settle in
Arrive, drop the bags, walk down to Carroll’s Cove for half an hour. Aperitif on the terrace as the sun gets low — try the Wild Atlantic G&T. Dinner in the restaurant; ask Martin’s team what the boats brought in this morning and order whichever Daily Fish they recommend.
Saturday — a slow day
Long breakfast (the smoked salmon and scrambled egg is a quiet hero). Lunch at the Smugglers Inn in Waterville — a 15-minute drive west, famous for crab. Afternoon for whatever you like — the beach, a walk, an hour by the fire. Cocktails before dinner; second night in the restaurant — go for the slow-cooked Kerry lamb or the seafood pasta.
Sunday — out and about
Drive to Skelligs Chocolate at St Finian’s Bay for elevenses (tastings are free, and the view from the picnic tables earns its keep). Lunch back in our restaurant on the deck if the weather plays nicely; on it your bowl of seafood chowder is going to taste better than the same bowl indoors. Head home with the salt still in your hair.
Worth a side-trip
Atlantic Irish Seaweed, run by John and Kerryann Fitzgerald, runs hands-on seaweed-foraging walks along the local shoreline (book in advance) — a lovely add-on if you have an extra half-day.
Worth a detour back
The Ballinskelligs ice-cream shop on the harbour, on your way home. You will thank us.


